The Cart before The Horse

So we are now in the midst of the second of three rounds of voting here in Egypt. And just to clarify, this does not mean that everyone gets to vote three times – although some will likely try, and some do have to vote twice!?! In any event, the three rounds are set so that the different parts of the country have an opportunity to safely, and with a level of organization not seen in an age around here, make their vote count.

Regardless of the outcomes in these other two rounds, it appears round one was the one of significance as it centred on Egypt’s largest city and has seemingly given the “Islamists” the victory they were so hopeful of. I use the quotation marks around the word “Islamists” because you will get a very different answer from people when you ask what that word means. In fact, I have yet to hear two people completely agree on the term. There are as many facets and interpretations of Islam as there are of Christianity.

In any event, it appears as though the Muslim Brotherhood have got their long sought after electoral victory. The name alone seems exclusionary to me – but then again our own national anthem only asks our “sons” to have true patriot love, which isn’t even the original wording of this wonderful song but when that was brought to light late in 2010 it caused an uproar not heard in Canada for some time. But whatever, totally different right? End of digression.

Back to the point. The Brotherhood has received their mandate from the people, with another large section of the population supporting the Salafists (the truly scary group that has bastardized the Koran to almost unrecognizable levels), and then the leftist, independents, and remnants of the Mubarak regime making up the rest. There is some legislation in there to ensure farmers and more of the poor are represented, so it will be interesting to see how it all shakes out in the end.

As I mentioned, the politicians have received their mandate, but even in that there is debate. What is their role? Their powers? What about the military? Have they been voted in to draft a constitution (as the politicians will claim), and if so, what happens once it has been agreed upon? Or are they a representative body that is going get down to the work of actually running the country (as the military believes they should do). But how do you get to running the country without laws? It is a sticky and murky situation that has many scratching our heads. Three weeks ago, to a person in the streets, everyone would have felt that the role of the people they were voting in was to draft the constitution. But the recent results seem to have changed that tune a bit. Where before, the politicians seemed intent of working with the military, they now seem to be negotiating and posturing for a greater role, including the complete subjugation of the armed forces (who can argue with a military actually being accountable to the people they protect?). Meanwhile, on the streets people seem to be feeling that maybe having the military presence involved in much of the decisions is not too much of a bad thing – these are the guys apparently willing to live and die for the country regardless of who is in charge, regardless of your political stripe, and regardless of religion, or so they say.

And for many, who once scoffed at this notion, and still do, it should be remembered, the American Bill of Rights, often held up as the gold standard of people working for the people, were themselves un-elected, many with military ties. And our beloved Canadian Charter of Rights and Freedoms? My gold standard by the way. It was hardly an election issue. Trudeau did promise some changes and worked tirelessly at it, speaking publically about for some two years, but ultimately it was a small group of intellectuals and advisers that gave us a document most see as fundamentally Canadian.

The point is, the system cannot dictate the constitution. The constitution, in whatever form, MUST dictate the system. People without political ties or motivations must be at the heart of this. If not, Egypt is in for a long and protracted debate about how to move forward, costing the people of this great country even more.

Whatever happens, it is hoped the horse eventually gets in front of that cart and takes Egypt into a bright future for all citizens.

Well, it could be worse!!

And after few too many posts with a few too many words, it is hoped the next couple posts come chalk full of pictures of animals and anecdotes of us watching those animals as we head off on safari in Kenya and then an ocean paradise in Zanzibar!

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Today they voted...


I have often found myself lucky enough to cast a ballot. Whether it was the first time I did it in Grade 7 during Student Council elections (for myself no less!) to choosing a person from where I live to represent me at the national level. It is something I have taken for granted before, but never again.

We've all done it. Reminded others, or been reminded by them, of the importance to vote. Yes! Today is the day! And then having gone about our day return home only to realise there's about 15 minutes to get to the poll.

Do you go?

I will. Now.

The privelege of being able to walk into a polling station with a piece of plastic that has my picture on it, put my mark on a piece of paper, and then be home before the poll even closes is something I will never take for granted again.

Today, Egyptians voted. Some would argue for the first time in 30 years. Others may say in 60 years. Still others may say never - but I've learned never and forever are very different things to different people. In any event they voted.

They voted despite incredible disorganization that had people waiting hours for the ballots to arrive. They voted despite fear of violence. They voted despite the most confusing electoral system I have had the pleasure of reading about.

And despite some rather intersting and tense moments - a judge has been rumoured kidnapped until the ballot boxes get locks or something like that; a candidate in one of the areas was accused of helping people fill out their ballots (it is hoped he was helping them sift through the up to 135 choices and plus all the other malarky and still allowing them to make their own choices); candiates on all sides stretching campaigning rules - the day went better than I think many had thought and planned for. Sure security was out in full force, but so was the will of the people - best shown by the LOOOOOONG and orderly lines outside the polling station, and even by those willingly signing up to be election monitors on the spot because whoever was supposed to was lost or afraid to come. Being lost...ahem...I mean, late, a common occurence for all walks of life in Cairo.

As the first of two days of voting comes to a close, it is hoped that the long peaceful lines of today will continue tomorrow. That today's peace was a positive first step in tempting even more people to flow into the streets, over to the polling station, all feeling a little more confident in themselves, a little more confident in their country.

If it happens, then I feel assured they are both headed in the right direction.

Oh, and they voted too! Just in case you were wondering.





On the Eve of History

There is a story from nine months ago, when in the midst of the worldwide celebration of the triumph of Tahrir Square, an Egyptian was in an airport going through customs. When the official she was dealing with alerted those around them that she was in fact an Egyptian, everyone, EVERYONE began cheering and congratulating her. As word spread throughout the airport as to what was happening, it is believed the entire airport stopped and cheered. Tears of joy flowed. It was a scene that had never been seen or heard of before. Or since.

So here we sit – the day before elections to determine a parliament that is going to create a constitution to move the country forward. This is the result of those triumphant days in Tahrir Square. It should be a day of excitement and anticipation full possibilities and dreams of a better future to come. Instead, it feels anxious and even dangerous, full of possibilities and dark days ahead.

See in this country, for the past 30 years, people have been so wary of elections that most did not participate. They worried at being in the wrong place at the wrong time. Showing up to a polling station that one group or another had staked as ‘theirs’. Now…no one’s sure. The feeling is everyone wants this to work but no one believes it will. Who, or what, is this underlying sense of helplessness? Not a person I have spoken with wants to see this get ugly, but not a single person believes it can be avoided. Too much history. Too much at stake. Too much.

And yet, this revolution, that started some 10 months ago (but simmering for years before), began with fear, exploded into elation, saw moments of violence and brilliance, and then seemed to build on frustration, continues to inspire many of these same people. The belief that freedom is worth fighting for. The belief that Egypt is capable of so much more. The belief that the will of people will ultimately rule the day. They just don’t seem to believe that tomorrow is the day. Or the next. They are prepared for a long, bloody battle they see as inevitable.

And so I sit here on the eve of this historic day as a somewhat ignorant ex-pat and hope that the impossible will happen. That people will realize the potential of free and fair elections. That people will be able to sift through the dizzying array of candidates and parties – my best guess is 47 parties in some 17 or so coalitions with thousands of candidates running the gauntlet of the political spectrum – and be satisfied with what they choose. That the military will continue to live up to its mandate as the protectors of Egypt, and not the rulers. That when we wake up Tuesday morning, or Wednesday morning, or some morning soon, the Egyptian sun that always shines will shine a little brighter because Egypt has once again set the example of what is possible when the will of the people chooses peace.

We are watching. The world is watching. And we hope we have reason to stand and cheer for Egypt once more.

Canada's Turn

CANADA’S TURN TO BE HEARD

To whom it may concern,

The year 2011 has been an interesting year to say the least. It has been a year of extreme highs and lows, and now it is Canada’s turn to wade into this year of history. And fortunately for Canadians our place in what may prove to be a defining year for our planet does not require us to make much of a sacrifice. It requires us to vote. But how does our vote, a single mark on a page, place Canada at the forefront of this historical year, you ask? Because more than ever our vote means something greater than whom we elect. On Tuesday morning, newspapers around the world will have one or two lines about who is our new Prime Minister. More in-depth analysis may include the name of the governing party, but likely will end at that. That is unless, you vote. We all vote. Not 60% of us. 100% of us. If as many people vote as possibly can, THIS WILL MAKE NEWS AROUND THE WORLD. It will be the lead over who won and who didn’t even here in Canada. It will be news. And then those people, reading this news around the world will begin to ask why? Why, in this year, have Canadians decided that one of the most important things we can do on a Monday is vote.

And we will answer, “Because we can. Because thousands have died this year in hopes of achieving this right for themselves. Because the youth of so many countries have risen up against tyranny. And because we know this same youth is watching, on TV, on the internet, and we wanted them to know, we are watching too. We are watching them struggle and we are hoping and praying they will be victorious. We are voting so we can add our voice to the millions around the world that are asking for theirs to be heard, and we are telling them that we hear them, and we are honouring them by casting this vote.”

Please vote. Vote for whom ever you like. Vote because you don’t like something. Vote because in this year, 2011, we understand, Canada is a country others hope and dream about. Theirs is a good dream. Ours is a good reality. It may not be perfect, but it is all we have at this moment in time, and it is more than many will realise in their lifetime. But it is a good dream that is only getting better.

I began this letter to you with, “To whom it may concern,” and I firmly believe, this concerns us all. We are watching here in Cairo, and we are hoping the momentum of 2011 continues on Monday, May 2 with Canada taking its turn to have its say. Good luck.

Peace,

John Arthur Dinner
Grade 7 Teacher
Canadian International School of Egypt
Cairo, Egypt

The Revolution WILL NOT be Televised - Part II

Part I of this story, if you did not get a chance to read it, can be found just below, a couple of entries ago. It is the story of our exit from Egypt at the end of January. This is the story of our return.
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After a couple of stressful and unsettling days in a Frankfurt airport hotel, where we tried to digest all that happened and was happening, we decided the best decision, if we’re going to sit and watch, was to head home to Canada.

It is incredible how quickly, and how effectively, the media hype was able to enter our thought processes once we had left – almost as quickly and incredibly as we found ourselves back in Canada, half a world away, and seemingly not even sharing a planet. Despite intimate knowledge of the happenings in Egypt, and still with some access to friends who remained, I couldn’t help finding myself thinking the worst – I would like to blame CNN, but I stopped watching that upon finding CBC Newsworld and CTV News Channel on the dial, and despite a little less sensationalism and a higher degree of professionalism in my opinion, I couldn’t shake doom and gloom.

The low-point for me came on Thursday, February 10. As we were driving into Southern Ontario for a much anticipated reunion with more family and friends, we heard through CBC Radio that Mubarak was getting ready to speak to the nation, and that by all accounts, he was preparing to step down…FINALLY! After hours of waiting, a typical tactic, Mubarak did speak, but did not step down. I was at a loss. This not only deflated me as I was anticipating celebrations across Egypt and the world, it had me scared for what the reaction would be. I was fearful as I believed Mubarak had purposely raised the possibility of him leaving to fan the flames of hope and anticipation (which had attracted thousands more to Tahrir Square); and then when he did not step down, I believed he was hoping that the let-down would unleash anger and violence, giving him reason to believe he was needed to keep the ‘peace’.

I could not imagine how the people of Egypt must have been feeling at that moment – I felt as though the winter gray skies had suddenly grown closer, and this was not going to end peacefully. Thursday night was another difficult night of contrasts; a happy family reunion with weight on my mind of the prospect of civil war in Egypt.

But to my surprise, everyone in Egypt steeled themselves against the frustration and anger, and they did not waiver in their demands or in their desire to get what they wanted peacefully. It really bothers me that I was surprised. Why should I be surprised? I had lived with these people. I had witnessed their determination. Would we, as Canadians, have responded differently? Would I? Hopefully we never have to know.

But instead of lashing out, as I had thought they would, the people of Egypt did the astounding, they came together as never before. Through the night of Thursday, February 10 and into the early morning hours of Friday, February 11, people by the tens of thousands streamed into Tahrir Square. By the time early morning prayers had concluded, the people of Cairo, and of Egypt, had proved they would not stand down, they would not be baited into violence against one another, and in an almost anti-climatic end, the recently installed Vice-President went on state television to announce that Mubarak had left! A miracle!

The jubilation echoed around the world, and the images witnessed on a television set half a world away, coupled with my feelings of connection to all people at that moment, will stay with me for as long as I live. The feeling of pride I had for the people of Egypt overwhelmed me, and I desperately wanted to be in the square celebrating with them. They had set the example we dreamed of – they had proven the spirit of humanity is strong in 2011. Friday was the best of all possible days. I had woken up fearful to turn on the news for what I would see and hear, only to learn that we had reason to celebrate.

Of course, with Mubarak stepping down, our thoughts soon went to our future, and that of Egypt’s. The stepping down of a president is not the end but in fact the beginning of the revolution. Would we be able to take part in our small way as teachers in Egypt? Should we? It was soon decided that school was going to re-open on the 20th of February and we essentially had nine days to get back. Were we ready? Did it matter?

Leaving Canada was particularly difficult this time as we had the obvious pressure to stay from family and friends – questions about safety, ours and everyone else’s, and the indisputable fact, Canada is so good. But the desire to get back was equally strong. A return to work – to feeling useful, to doing what we do. A return to a country that needed to get back to normal so it could get down to the business of building a nation. A return to our students who had not much choice in living through these historic times, surely many not comprehending what had happened and what was happening – although to think anyone fully comprehends this situation is ludicrous. And so with some hesitation and trepidation, we hopped on a plane bound for Cairo, and to what else, we did not know.

This was now our fourth time landing at the Cairo Airport, and it was certainly the strangest. All these mixed emotions entering a place that just 17 days ago we had left amidst chaos, confusion, and some extortion. Now we come back to an airport like any other in the world. If you didn’t know what had happened, you wouldn’t have noticed anything here. For us though, we did know, and we noticed the small things. The enthusiasm of the staff of the airport, not knowing who we were, but a little happier to see us. An almost enthusiastic, “Welcome back!” from the customs agent. Taxi drivers, while still looking to make a few dollars by giving us a ride, literally and figuratively, smiled more and offered us, “Welcome to Egypt!” with a little more sincerity – or maybe that was just me.

The ride back to our apartment was as ‘normal’ a car ride as you are going to get in Cairo – flying along the highway at 120 km, using all three lanes as if there were six, the only difference being the number of Egyptian flags adorning the cars and trucks we passed. Arriving to our building we were met by the same people who just days ago were grim with determination and seriousness, and were now all smiles, and all too happy to help get our stuff inside.

The next couple of days kind of run into each other as we dealt with the inevitable jet lag from being seven hours out of sync, but also in dealing with the raw energy that pervaded everything we did. Egypt was still unsettled. No one knew what was going to happen next. But to a person, they remain defiant and sure that it will work out. Along with the smiles and greetings, there is an intangible difference in how the Egyptians we met on these first few days carried themselves. They were proud of what they had done, they stood taller so to speak, and the determination to make this work rippled to the surface the longer you spent time with them. But it was also sometime during these first few days that we noticed a bloody hand print outside the door of the first floor apartment, the apartment belonging to the building care-taker and his family. It was a stark, and now daily, reminder of the seriousness of the situation we left, and come back to. While the world celebrated a ‘peaceful’ revolution, for many Egyptians, loved ones were badly hurt, and in an estimated 300 families, killed.

The 20th of February did not bring us together with our students (that would have to wait two more days), but it did give us a chance to collect and re-group as a staff. To try and plan how to move forward, to discuss how in the world you deal with students in this situation, and share stories of trips out of the country, stories of home, stories of returning, and stories of staying. The best part of this day was learning that 100% of the staff had chosen to return – chosen to come back to their students, to continue to be role models for children that had come to depend on them, to try to bring a sense of normalcy to young people who we were sure needed it, and to continue to play a small part in helping this country grow.

On our second day we got to hear from some of the Egyptian staff, and their take on the matter. While their enthusiasm was tempered from that which the world witnessed in Tahrir Square through their television sets, their passion was certainly evident. It was made clear that our presence, and our return, was to them, a good omen, a sign of progress, not only in the revolution, but for the country – as teachers we would be leading the people who were going to inherit this time in history. It was an uplifting message, but one that again led to mixed feelings of confidence and ignorance. Confident in what I do as a teacher, ignorant to what a teacher is ‘supposed’ to do.

And with that came the first day that we had been anticipating. How would it go? There was no doubt going to be children from families who were not happy with the changes, and they would be sharing a classroom with youngsters caught up in the euphoria of the moment and teachers who, ideologically speaking, were on board with what was happening. How would this play out? How would we handle it?

From the moment of seeing the first student, it became apparent as to how most students were going to be feeling today – relief! Relief at being back to a routine that had been interrupted. Relief at getting back to doing what they do. Relief that, while being surrounded by chaos, at home and in the streets, their classroom would remain a sanctuary. The energy in the school was tangible, and smiles, and shouts of reunion were everywhere – for many of the students, being away from school also means being away from friends as many live great distances from each other, made all that greater by closed roads and insecurity. The school was adorned in red, white, and black, teachers included, and possibly for the first time, students stood and not just listened, but heard their national anthem, which begins “Biladi, Biladi, Biladi” meaning, “My country, my country, my country!”

Then the stories came. Some exaggerated. Some with hesitation. Some with happiness. Many with fear and anxiety. All attempting to come to terms with what they experienced. Many student homes had been the targets of the looters in those first few days – the days that led us to leave – and family businesses were looted. Friends injured. Neighbours killed. First-hand accounts of violence from the people closest to them. For me, teaching Grade 7, the stories focused on their family, and the role they played in protecting themselves and each other. Many got to go to Tahrir Square after Mubarak stepped down, and those that did, recounted the wonderful scene of celebration. Mine was a day to enjoy.

For others, things were tougher. The stories heard elsewhere in the school focused on the events of the square, who was there and who was not. But it was also first-hand accounts of being on the streets on those first few scary nights. Seeing things they’d never thought they’d see. Doing things they’d never thought they’d do. Some recounting with that spark of pride. Others with that weight of fear. Everyone had a story. And none of them had been seen on TV.

And so the first day of school after the revolution came and went. A school community trying to come to grips with all that has transpired, and each of us trying to figure out how we can best play our part. All around Cairo we are witnessing small victories, as people, long believing change was someone else’s job, do their part to make Cairo better. Communities are banding together to make their neighbourhood cleaner, better, brighter. Murals are being painted. Flags are everywhere. Red, white, and black dominate. Tuesdays and Fridays have been set aside as days of protest – Tuesday to mark the tangible beginning and the continuation of this struggle; Friday, the holy day, to keep the pressure, and the eyes of the world, on the people charged with bringing about the changes so many want. Tahrir Square, as the days wore on became a community unto itself – protecting and providing for its citizens. A sophisticated network of volunteer security to ensure the peace was kept, and infiltrators kept out. Now it has become a symbol for a new generation, and Tahrir, meaning liberation, has taken on a new meaning.

And now we wait, and we hope. We wait to see what will happen next, and we hope that Egypt continues to be the shining example, as many in the Middle East, and throughout the world, try to give themselves’ a voice not heard before.

Egypt is speaking. Some say for the first time. So we wait, we listen, and we hope.

Tahrir Square!

A friend of ours that we have made while in Egypt got to spend 5 days in Tahrir Square. He shared a link to all his photos, and we feel privileged to be able to share them with you!

Please keep Egypt and all Egyptians in your thoughts. Peace.

Click the link below (or paste it into your browser)...

http://hashish.smugmug.com/EgyptianPeopleCivilizedUprisin

Evacuation From Cairo

Check out these news clips...

Canadian Evacuation - Our flight was the first flight of Canadians evacuated out of Cairo to Frankfurt, Germany (see if you can spot John Dinner on the plane!)

CBC interview - One of our fellow teachers at the Canadian International School in Cairo does an interview from our hotel in Frankfurt.. nice work Angie!

The Revolution WILL NOT Be Televised

So much has happened in the month since we returned to Cairo. First there was the bombing in Alexandria of a Coptic Christian celebration that had many bracing, and most of the world believing the inevitable Christian vs. Muslim clash. What was not widely known was that following that incident, many Muslims around Egypt went with their Christian compatriots and neighbours to Coptic New Year prayers and services in a sign of solidarity. It was a moving time, and had us feeling pretty good about starting 2011 in Cairo.

But it also left us a little frustrated at the Western media and the sensational coverage they give to places near and far.

And so, with that, below is an account of our experiences over the days that had many all over the world rightfully scared and nervous, but has left us hopeful for a peaceful resolution to this revolution.

The Revolution WILL NOT be Televised

Everyone hoped that what they were seeing was both the truth and not possible. Family and friends a world away, linked only through snippets gathered during a complete media blackout on the famed networks. But the truth is, what they are seeing is not the truth and is very much possible. Fortunately for those of us here, it has been everything they have described and nothing like it at all.

It began Tuesday (the 25th of January, 2011) with a holiday to commemorate the police, an institution both feared and famed throughout Egypt, and one as it turns out, the locals have come to depend on despite their hatred of it. The police here are charged not only with protection but with ensuring the people keep their place. And so on Tuesday with anger around the world mounting over the inequalities of life, Egypt was presented with an opportunity to add their voice to the discontent – and they spoke loud and clear. Louder than even the most hopeful of the people had expected. Certainly louder than anyone within the Egyptian government could have ever imagined, particularly since they reside in their own little fantasy world of being the defenders of the land – loved by all.

With the help of social media thousands upon thousands of people took to the streets on Tuesday demanding a better life, demanding a fair shake, and demanding that their government, their dictatorship, their protectors, do something about it. But did anyone hear?

And so Tuesday passed. A one line sentence across the bottom of the TV screen, only worth mentioning because Egypt is so large and the recent unrest in what many must now believe to be their neighbour in Tunisia (they are not neighbours and don’t even particularly like each other) was still a recent memory. That one line did not sum up the fact that the people vowed to be back, that this time was different.

And while that one line, or anyone who read it, certainly did not foreshadow or anticipate what was to come, missing the point even more was the government. They played the day as something as a show of support for the police, and used the relatively peaceful protests as proof that Egypt was in fact an open and democratic society, and people were allowed to voice their displeasure. What they also then said was that those few who were bent on continuing the unrest were infiltrators into Egypt who wanted to destabilize the largest and most peaceful of the Arab states. And if they intended on trying to protest again they would be met with severe punishment. Word of this spread like wildfire through the internet and cafes and soon those “few” promised to be back Friday. This time was going to be different.

And so went Wednesday and Thursday. A growing sense of impending history among the people against the backdrop of an arrogant and misguided government.

Friday morning arrived, and those of us in ignorance – which is anyone at this point who did not speak or read Arabic – really had no idea of what to expect. Soon the internet was down and by 10 am phones were gone too, and we fell further into the dark. But being in our little expat bubble, and knowing the trouble was miles away in downtown Cairo our thoughts focused on whether appointments were going to be kept or baseball practice was going to be held. Spending the day in an un-enforced house arrest I finally ventured out into the calm to see what was up, connect with some friends, and see if baseball was indeed on. It was not. And at 5:30 in the afternoon, those of us that met on the eerily quiet street, all in ignorance, were none the wiser.

A quick stop into the local ex-pat club revealed that I was in the dark more than most as our TV was not working, leaving me to believe everyone’s was as well – no one was surprised to have the internet and phones done, so my TV also being done left me assuming it was all just part of the day, part of the inconvenience. But this was not the case, and the growing story was now getting full coverage as people flooded into the streets of Egypt’s biggest cities.

With this new found source of information, and a 6:30 rendezvous with my wife, I set off in search of some friends to join the viewing party. By 5:45 however Cairo was put under a 6:00 pm curfew, which soon extended to all of Egypt, and my confidence in the calm of where I found myself, was lost. Determined to meet my wife, and sure that despite the Cairo curfew things in our little bubble would remain the same for a little while, three of us set out, after curfew, to meet my wife and gather at the ex-pat club to watch as history unfolded. Only this time, upon arriving at the club, where minutes before there was a crowd of 30-40 people eating watching the events unfold, we found its doors were locked, and our entrance denied. This heightened my growing anxiety as I had to meet my wife who I hadn’t seen in over an hour, and who was possibly even more unaware of the situation than I was. But once again, proving ignorance is at times bliss, and after 15 minutes of anxious waiting, my wife strolled up all smiles.

And so went Friday. A trip from blissful ignorance to watching the events of the evening unfold on television as if we were hundreds of miles away, knots in our stomachs as we knew this was just the beginning, but not knowing what that beginning really meant, or when it would end.

Saturday morning arrived – the sun shining and an eery calm in our little corner of Cairo. So calm and so restless from another night confined indoors, that we ventured out to the little street in our neighbourhood where breakfast could be found at a local diner and we could digest what was happening with others who were hopefully more in tuned with what was happening than we were. What we found under the shining sun were smiles all around us and a feeling that we had reached the end – marginal violence had not increased and things had ended relatively peacefully. By 11:00 am phones were back up, and believing all was well, we said goodbye to our friends and made plans to hang out again later. Knowing the protests were planned again, but this time with a belief we knew what was going on, we went home and went about our day as usual.

Just before 3:00 pm Saturday we once again wandered out of our house only this time, things were dramatically different. Our normally cheerful neighbours were bathed in seriousness, and many men were carrying sticks and knives, and as we were to learn later, guns. The relatively peaceful protests of the night before had spread to our neighbourhood and the rumour of vandalism and small looting was on the lips of everyone. It was then explained to us in no uncertain terms that it would be best to return to our apartment and stay there until morning. Shortly after that, the first gun shots were heard.

They came from across the way, from the jail on the other side of the highway, but for us they may as well have been in our apartment. Then the words that would prove to be the definition of our night scrolled across the screen – “Vandalism and looting spreading through Cairo.” “Shots heard at a prison outside of Cairo. Inmates suspected of rioting and escaping.” With the television our only source of information we were joined by our neighbours, young women from the west, both seasoned expat teachers in Cairo, both bewildered by what we were reading and hearing, we together held vigil over the television, taking brief glimpses to the street below in the dying light of day where the men of the neighbourhood armed themselves with whatever they could find and organized themselves.

The first shouts of anger and call to arms arrived a short while later and brought the four of us to the window to witness a fire being set and people running in all directions. BANG BANG BANG The shots rang out and we all hit the floor. Windows rattled and screams and shouts surrounded us. More shots and more yelling, and then nothing. Our neighbours ran back to their apartment as we barricaded ours with locked doors that had chairs jammed under the handle – not to mention a couple of empty wine bottles and a kitchen knife.

And so went Saturday night. The story of looting and vandalism growing along with the story of neighbourhood watches. Calm followed by chaos followed by more calm. Phones ringing off the hook as people from all over the city called and shared their stories of what was happening around them. A night spent coming to grips with a difficult balancing act of being both afraid for our safety and proud of the efforts of ordinary folks to keep the peace. But mostly afraid. Our ignorance was no longer something that allowed us to leave in bliss, but in extreme fear as to what was really going on.

As we were to learn, the success of Friday night emboldened a great many people to act. Many more joined the protests, leaving a small minority of people an opportunity to descend on the vacant streets. This small group became all the more brave as they discovered the police had quite literally vanished from the streets (they are very nearly as common on the streets of Cairo as the garbage and the cats), in a supposed attempt to rein in the contempt and incidences of violence. As word spread, more of the poor and desperate, and those with a criminal streak, sought to take advantage, while many more took up the position of local vigilantes bent on protecting what was theirs – a recipe for confusion and confrontation that lasted throughout the night amidst the sound track of gun shots, both in the distance and far too close for comfort.

Sunday morning arrived before restful sleep did, and we were determined to be more prepared today than were the day before. We packed a bag each and headed back to our friends place across town not wanting to be across from the prison, looking for a little more quiet, and comfort in familiarity. We came downstairs to find some evidence of the chaos of the night before – tired eyes and men with sticks – but mostly we found a quiet street that would have deceived anyone regarding the events of the night before. A sun shining and children playing. A sense of calm was restored but we remained aware that we had under-estimated what was happening twice before, and we were not about to do that again. After some 20 minutes of waiting and assuring our neighbours we were not fleeing, but going to be with a larger group of friends, a taxi was granted access by what we believed to be our neighbourhood’s rag-tag security force, and we were on our way.

The streets remained empty but we soon realised this was not rag-tag security as evidence was everywhere of the sophistication of the previous night’s efforts. Road blocks at strategic locations. Anything and everything that could be moved or used, was, to increase the security of all. The evidence was also in the eyes of all we came across – a steeled determination to prevent anarchy and to prove to the world that Egypt was not about to descend into chaos. But the events of Saturday night had proved to be too much for many in the expat community, many of whom are teachers, and with shots continuing to be heard through the day, plans were being put in place to get out. Phones rang throughout the day – from home, from around the corner, from across the city – as people tried to figure just what to do. It was learned the airport was chaos, with many of the 100,000 or so weekly tourists and the $1 billion in tourist revenue trying to get out. And with internet still down in the country, people organized and discussed with those elsewhere what to do and the sense of confusion grew.

Early in the afternoon, the friends we were with learned through that through the wonders of greasing some wheels and likely some palms that they were to be evacuated the following morning to a resort town on the Sinai coast. Despite efforts to get us on that bus, we were not staff at their school and so security clearance could not be given to us. We were going to be left behind.

And so went Sunday afternoon. A growing sense that this was something that was not going to go away in a day or two, anxiety at being separated from our friends in these uncertain times, while taking in reports from the television that things were only going to get worse. Much worse. But Sunday night came and went, and despite our provisions and preparedness, nothing happened. The protests grew. The neighbourhood militias became even more organized and determined. And for the most part, nothing happened.

Except for the phone. With a time difference of 7 hours or so from most of our families, they were waking up to reports of growing insanity as the media fed the story and exploited every angle of violence as peaceful demonstrations do not keep an audience glued to the TV. And despite having witnessed and felt a day of increasing assuredness that Egypt had reached the precarious balance of peaceful, purposeful protest, we were left with pits of anxiety in our stomachs as family and friends tried to understand what was happening with us and to make sure we were safe. Not an hour went by without a phone call from someone somewhere, and by 8:00 am Monday morning, weary from the roller-coaster of events and emotions, our friends prepared to leave and we were left to ponder what was going to happen next.

And so Monday morning arrived. An uneasy goodbye to friends – anxiety at being separated, happiness that at least something was being done, an echo of gunfire around us, confidence in the people of Egypt doing it right. We walked out past many people who had spent the night defending their turf to see more smiles, another confusing sign in all this. Happiness in the success of their efforts, determination not to give up, but all holding tightly to their weapon of choice.

Leaving our friends at the corner we were once again on our way home in a taxi, and the transformation from just 24 hours before was astonishing. While the sophistication of the security was evident the day before, the road blocks and security check points were far more in number and determined, even to the point of our car being searched before making our final turn into our neighbourhood. In our neighbourhood we were greeted by even more smiles, handshakes, and assurances that we would be looked after and safe. We were once again feeling that being at the centre of history wasn’t so bad, and that sticking around was the better option than spending 10 hours on a bus filled with panic-stricken colleagues. So confident were we that we decided to venture out with a colleague to collect some groceries and once again prepare for another evening under curfew.

In our walk around town we met many others and heard many similar stories to what we had been through over the last couple of days, and each story and exchange left us feeling better about what we were experiencing.

But then the phone rang again.

We were told we had a very short window of time to make a decision – the Canadian government was arranging flights out of the country, first-come first-serve to Canadian passport holders. Two flights. 5:00 pm and 7:30 pm. It was 12:05. What to do? What about our neighbours? What about our jobs? Wasn’t this just about over? What should we do? We went.

It was not an easy decision, but with only moments to make it, it was the right one. We were not helping with our presence, and in fact, we may have made our neighbourhoods targets. At least that’s what we told ourselves to make it easier. Our inability to speak the language meant we couldn’t help when things required quick thinking and coordinated action. As foreigners it would be easier for others to take out their frustrations on us rather than a fellow Egyptian, which would only put those who were protecting us in a compromising position. At least that is what we told ourselves to make it easier. We left, hoping our exit would allow others to no longer worry about us, and we are sure that where there were smiles just an hour ago upon our return, there were now looks of understanding and even relief. At least that is what we told ourselves to make it easier. We left, hoping that the people of Egypt get all that they want and deserve.

Within minutes we had a ride arranged for ourselves and a colleague along with his family, and by 1:30 we were on a bus trying to find a spot within the airport complex where “the Canadians” could be organized. Amid the chaos of the airport we found a patch of grass where we filled out paperwork to ensure our spots on the planes and make sure the Canadian government knows who owes them $400 for the privilege for leaving. By 4:30 were led into the terminal past many desperate people as we headed to the counter to check our luggage and pass through security. By 6:00 all “the Canadians” were through and waiting to find the gate we were to load through. At 7:00 we were told to go to Gate 3 for “Immediate Boarding” only to find the gate abandoned and the door out to the tarmac locked. Another 15 minutes of confusion was followed by the heroically patient diplomat from Canada explaining that many Egyptian workers had worked hard behind the scenes to ensure our safe passage and that some ‘bakeesh’ was necessary – a gesture all agreed was something we were happy to oblige. Even thankful. For the moment. For it seems the generousity and gratitude of “the Canadians” was quickly noted by some people who had done nothing for us to this point saw the opportunity presented by an eager and desperate group of people to leave. Within minutes of handing over a sizeable and generous ‘bakeesh’ we were presented with an ultimatum by the recently re-installed police. $2000 USD or the doors will not open. Anger quickly flooded the room, but more to the point, an inevitable sense that we were doomed to be spending a night in the airport in the middle of the anarchy we had so far mostly avoided.

On the assurances of the increasingly frustrated, but determined diplomat that all ‘donations’ would be receipted and people would be reimburse, the $2000 was raised within seconds, thanks mostly to one well-heeled tourist who threw $1200 into the pot. Thinking we had over-come our last obstacle to jettisoning out Cairo we were then surprised to see a police officer enter the gate and explain that we were not to be there and had to leave immediately. Did we pay up too quickly? Had they accepted the bribe and saw how easily and quickly it had been arranged? Panic once again returned, and many, possibly heartened by the protesters plight of fighting corruption, voiced their anger and frustration. Fortunately for us all, the bribe had yet to be paid, cooler heads prevailed, and soon we were loading buses headed for our Air Canada flight to Frankfurt.

But through the roller-coaster of emotions and moments over the last few days, and particularly the last six or seven hours, we remained resigned to not getting ahead of ourselves, and when the pilot announced that our only remaining delay (after 45 minutes on the plane) was waiting for the vehicle to push us back from our gate, no one groaned, but many wondered if we were in for a night of sleep on the tarmac and further greasing of wheels and palms. Fifteen minutes later we were pushing back, which brought a smattering of applause, but again, no one was willing to concede victory on this day until we were in the air. As the plane sped down the runway the feelings of relief were palatable and when the feeling of lift-off finally confirmed we were in the air, a roar of approval echoed through the cabin.

And so went Sunday night. An uneventful flight that left some 4 hours later than originally anticipated, headed towards Frankfurt, and to what else? Well, no one really knew.

And now I join the millions of people around the world watching events unfold in Egypt as if I was never there. The ticker giving me information on what the military might or might not do. Trying to guess how the people will react to this or to that. Listening to ‘experts’ and reporters give their stories, always hoping for a peaceful end to all this, a turn in the right direction, but always waiting for that next hurdle.

Whatever happens, I will not forget the people of Egypt. I will not forget the quiet determination of my neighbours. I will not forget the issues the protesters raise are the issues I have come to take for granted in my life and in my country. I will not forget that I am now a voice for all this. And I will not forget, that even while we can watch events unfold, the revolution will not be televised. It will be lived.

Neighbours stocking up.

Our alley-way road block.

Our neighbourhood roadblock.

Security guard!?!

Looking after our building, day and night. Truly, no better hands!

Tank at the entrance to our neighbourhood.

On our way to the airport!

Our 1st Married Christmas!

The holidays this year meant a trip home to ring in our first Christmas as married people! It was something we were both excited for - to see family and friends during a whirlwind 8 day adventure (Burlington, Oakville, Montreal, Hamilton, and Whitby), but it also confirmed that we would be able to attend the wedding of our great friends, and one of Tasha's oldest friends, Tanya and Darryl! IN LAS VEGAS!!

The very happy couple making their appearance at the reception. Outstanding party, outstanding food, just plain OUTSTANDING!


Attending the wedding of Darryl and Tanya was obviously the highlight of our trip to Vegas, but getting there just after Christmas meant it just made sense to stick around until New Years.


Confirmation from these guys that Las Vegas IS the City of Sin. Happy New Year!


With New Years come and gone, including the largest firework spectacle we've ever seen (Las Vegas does do it BIG), and a wedding attended, it was time to get down to the business of what Vegas does well - shows and gambling!

GAMBLING - While John was able to walk away from our trip with an extra $2000, his wins did not match the excitement of Tasha's big score - $42.50!!!!

SHOW - All you need is LOVE! So good.

From Vegas it was off to Rome to explore the city once known as The Centre of the World, and home to so many attractions and sites that despite our best efforts to criss-cross the city and see it all, we will have to go back again. And again. Adding to the excitement was that we were going to be meeting up with Graham and Tia who were finishing their holidays that included Vienna and Venice!!


The Sistine Chapel. Check. St. Peter's Basilica. Check. The Colisseum. Check. The Spanish Steps. Check. Trevi Fountain. Check. Still so much more to see, not to mention a good place to go for a meal or three!!

With the Gnome in Rome by the Dome (the dome being the top of St. Peter's)!

Anyone seen the Colisseum? Oh, there it is!

The Spanish Steps

The Trevi Fountain

From Cairo to Southern Ontario and Montreal to Vegas to Rome! It was a holiday that had us venturing all over the world and it is something that we will surely remember for the rest of our lives! Now that's how you end a year and bring in a new one!!

Not bad for our first married Christmas!

Jordan 2010


Here's those photos we promised. Finally!